One
of the most common modifications made to all Ford Broncos is the
installation of a higher capacity cooling system. The stock cooling
systems in most Ford trucks leaves a lot to be desired. Many Bronco owners
complain of their trucks running too hot while towing or while sitting in
traffic on very hot days. One of the main causes of this problem is the inefficient
open-impeller water pumps (see Fig. 3 bellow) that most of us are running
on our trucks. I am not sure if Ford installed these kinds of pumps
from the factory, but I do know that every replacement water pump I have
ever seen from auto parts houses such as Advance, Autozone, and Pepboys
are of the open-impeller design.
My Bronco was no different. So while I
was rebuilding the engine, I decided to try a new closed-impeller Victor
Series water pump from Edelbrock. As soon as I opened the box, the
difference between my water pump and the Edelbrock was apparent (see Fig.
1)
Click on each thumb nail to
enlarge |
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Fig.
1
Pump
Comparison |
Fig.
2
Edelbrock
Pump |
Fig.
3
Standard
Pump |
It was also nice to see a product from
the aftermarket industry that was made with this kind of quality. The
casting and the machining on the Edelbrock pump seemed flawless. A close
look at the impeller (Fig. 2) shows the unique computer-designed cast iron
impeller that Edelbrock claims is 20% more efficient that the
open-impeller design (Fig. 3). Actually, this type of impeller is not all
that unique. It is almost identical to the factory impellers installed on
the old Oldsmobile Rocket V8 engines. In fact, Oldsmobile is just about
the only automotive manufacture who uses this kind of impeller on their
water pumps (at least in the old days).
All right. So it looks great, but what
really matters is how well it performs and how well it fits. So our first
priority is getting the pump installed. When installing the pump, be sure
to follow these steps:
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First,
make sure you buy the correct RTV sealant when installing the pump.
I recommend Mega Black O.E.M. Hi-Temp Silicone, Type 998 gasket
sealer. |
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You will
need to round up a 3/8" pipe plug to put in the second heater
hose outlet in the Edelbrock pump. Make sure you use Teflon tape or
plumber's dope on the plug so it doesn't leek. The pipe plug in your
stock pump has different threads, so it will not work. |
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Once you
have gathered the parts and sealant, make sure the timing cover where the water pump goes is thoroughly
clean and free of oil and grease so the new pump will seal properly.
I like to use a putty knife to scrape off the old gasket sealer and
then go over the gasket area with paint thinner to remove any oil or
dirt that may still remain. |
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Spread a
thin, even coat of RTV sealant on the gasket area on the back of the
pump. Allow it to dry for 5 to 10 minutes until it feels
"tacky". |
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Gently
place the gasket that comes with the pump on the back of the pump
over the sealant you just applied. Make sure the holes on the gasket
and the pump line up. |
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Now spread
a thin, even coat on the back of the gasket. Allow it to dry for
another 5 to 10 minutes. |
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Now take
the bolts out of your original pump and place them through the
appropriate holes on the new pump. |
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Place the water pump on the engine and hand tighten all
the bolts. |
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Torque the
bolts to 12-18 ft-lbs of torque in a "star" type pattern
so you do not warp the pump. By "star pattern" I mean
start with the bolts on the left, then move to the bolts on the
right, then the top, and finally the bottom. Repeat this pattern,
tightening each bolt little-by-little, until all bolts are torqued
to 12-18 ft-lbs. |
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It's also
a good idea to replace the thermostat while you have the coolant out
of the engine. A sticking thermostat can "blow" the seal
on the water pump. Make sure to buy a high-flow thermostat
since your new Edelbrock pump will flow more coolant than your old
one. |
Well now that the pump is installed I can
honestly say that the installation of the pump was flawless. All of the original
water pump bolts slipped right it with no problem. The AC, PS pump, and
Alternator brackets bolted right up to the pump without a hitch. Anyone
who has ever bought and installed any aftermarket parts knows that this
kind of installation is very, very rare. So how does it work? GREAT! I
have not had the engine running very long since I installed this pump, but
so far it can handle my high horse power 406 in 90 degree heat with no
problem. It defiantly runs cooler than the old pump.
I strongly recommend this pump, not only
for applications where the engine is running hot, but anytime a water pump
needs to be replaced on a Ford product. It looks great, it fits well, it
weighs less than the old iron pump, and most of all it really works. The price
is a little high (it cost me $156.00) but it is well worth the price. g Paul's
Product Score: I give this product a 9.5. It could have easily scored
a perfect 10, but I had to deduct points because it didn't include a
3/8" pipe plug for vehicles that only use one heater hose outlet on
the pump. This meant I had to make a trip to the hardware store during the
installation, and I HATE going to hardware and auto parts stores in the
middle of a project! |